It’s the contentious skincare ingredient that might just transform your routine.

By Emily Taylor

Retinol isn’t new. In fact, it’s been incorporated into topical skincare for many decades. Unfortunately, the ingredient received a bad rap in the ‘90s due to the unwanted side effects it produced – irritation, sensitivity, flaking, redness. If you sampled any formulas back then, chances are you’re nodding your head in agreement right now. It’s true that retinol – a derivative of vitamin A – can err on the aggressive side if it’s not handled with care. However, the new breed of products is much more gentle, minimising the downsides while maximising efficiency.

So, what is retinol, exactly? Part of the vitamin A family, retinol is a type of retinoid often found in over-the-counter skincare products. Its magic lies in its ability to promote collagen production over time, which can decrease as we age. This collagen rebuilding capacity, along with increased cell turnover, means you’ll notice a reduction in things like fine lines and enlarged pores and an increase in skin density and brightness. It’s the ultimate multitasker.

 There are a few things to consider, though, before incorporating retinol into your routine. First, you’ll need to be diligent. Skin experts consider 12 weeks an appropriate amount of time to start noticing results, so consistency – and patience - is key. 

You should also start slow and work your way up to avoid noticeable side effects. These could be dryness, flakiness or even breakouts – sometimes referred to as the “retinol uglies”. Consider kicking off with a low-dose formula (one that specifies it’s safe for every day) and apply just once or twice a week, building up to more regular use. Usually, by around the six-week mark, your skin should’ve settled down and order will be restored.

It’s also a good idea to add in a heavier duty moisturiser (something simple will do, I love La Roche Posay’s cult Cicaplast Baume B5+, just on nights I’m using a retinoid). Keeping your complexion calm and hydrated is key. And always use your retinol at night, ensuring you apply SPF 50+ every day without fail – even if it’s rainy, even if you’re going to be indoors. This is a non-negotiable, as retinol can increase skin’s sensitivity to sun exposure.

Ready to try? Or preparing to upgrade your go-to formula? Consider these options, designed to deliver firmer, smoother skin.

Entry level: The Ordinary Retinol in Squalane

Available in three different strengths – 0.2, 0.5 and 1 percent – this purse-friendly yet trustworthy product offers a variant for every stage of your retinol journey. The addition of squalene keeps skin comfortable. Amazing value/quality ratio, as we’ve come to expect from The Ordinary.

Price: From $12.90 for 0.2% to $14.80 for 1% strength.

Mid range: Alpha-H Vitamin A Serum with 0.5% Retinol

Another solid introductory option if you’re starting out, this lightweight formula hydrates as it renews for a smoother look with more even texture and tone. Additions of Tomato Fruit Extract and Evening Primrose Oil elevate the experience from this brilliant Australian brand.

Price: $84.95

Luxe: Medik8 Crystal Retinal

This high-end option comes in five progressive strengths (1,3,6, 10 and 20) to ensure your results never plateau. Designed to be faster acting and more potent than your average retinol, this retinal product promises expedited result in a stable format.

Price: From $89 for Crystal Retinal 1 to $195 for Crystal Retinal 20